Louisiana Central Railroad Company
When I erected my basic L-girder framework
for the layout, I used a single "keeper" joist at each leg set location
for the purpose of holding the L-girders in position. As I've
progressed with the sub-roadbed around the layout, I've added joists on
approximately 16" centers to support the risers and sub-roadbed.
Many modelers drill holes through their joists in which they then pull the
wires for the various electrical circuits around the layout. The
problem I have with that is threefold:
1) I don't have all the joists in place so that the wire can be
2) Making changes to the wiring becomes more laborious if one has
to pull wiring in or out of all those holes.
3) Moving or modifying joists and other supporting benchwork
components can be very inconvenient if wiring is already run through them.
|My solution was to create a series
of hangers for the wiring. For this I use simple EMT conduit
clamps attached to the web of the L-girders. These clamps
are available in many sizes; I'm using 1/2" and 3/4". I buy
them in boxes of 100 at Home Depot and they are relatively
inexpensive in that quantity
|I use a single 3/4" hex head sheet
metal screw to attach the clamp, oriented in a vertical position,
with the screw at the bottom. I like these screws as I can
drive them into the soft pine wood, using a nut driver, without
first drilling a pilot hole.
Generally I space the clamps about 12" apart, with additional clamps
located where needed. When running multiple wires through the clamps
(which I normally do) I use both color coded wires and a liberal use of
cable markers. I am running my power buses at the back L-girder near
the wall, and my control buses at the front L-girder near the aisle.
I also have some special wiring in a couple locations for the optical
detectors on the staging tracks. This is a 25 pair telephone cable
that I'm suspending in it's own set of 1/2" conduit clamps attached to the
bottom of the joists. I've already had to make changes in that
wiring and the clamps made it a snap. Merely loosen the screw at the
clamp and slip the wire in or out, then re-tighten.
While not very high tech, this method has served me well on my last couple